This years London fashion week (LFW) spread the sustainability message loud and clear, but does this mean fast fashion is coming to a halt? A vast range of sustainable clothing brands was seen on the runway this season, reinforcing the importance of using recycled materials in clothing production and making businesses more 'eco-friendly.' Sustainable fashion brands featured on the runway were Vin+Omi, Riley Studio, Riona Treacy, Hanna Fiedler and Unaji which are sadly not widely known.
Vin+Omi
Vin+Omi is a brand which has been working on sustainable clothing since 2004 and has introduced a clothing project called 'Sting' which features clothes made from Prince Charles nettle plants. Garments made from this new fabric were featured during LFW, making a bold statement about the way our clothes should be made. Vin+Omi also use plant dyes to colour fabric and originally turn discarded vinyl outdoor advertising posters into vibrant new bags.
The company works on sustainable projects including sustainable eco latex which is chemical free. They invested in a latex plantation in Malaysia in 2009 which ensures that workers make a good amount of money and that the production processes are organic. They also use organic plants to make plant based fabrics which have minimal impact on the environment and are completely sustainable. They are currently experimenting with a range of organic materials including chestnuts, fungi and algae and by-products of the food industry. They are one of the most environmentally conscious fashion brands striving to make a change in the fashion industry.
Unaji
Unaji&co is a fashion brand by British multimedia artist Emmanuel Unaji who studies at Kingston School of Art. He customises existing items of clothing with his creative artwork and drawings to make them unique and original. His pieces are incredibly captivating and combine fashion and art whilst challenging socially accepted ideas created by the fashion industry. His combination of painting, drawing, collage and fashion design makes his brand stand out from the rest.
Popular culture and Christianity are at the centre of Unaji's work. He strongly reflects the conflict between what is morally right or wrong in his garments as well as religious concepts such as 'innocent sin' which he uses as a starting point for his work.
Riley Studio
Riley Studio is a brand which produces "gender-neutral wardrobe staples, that are kind on the planet." The unisex brand creates clothing from up cycled waste products such as ocean plastic and fishing nets. They use natural fibres to create ethical fashion, contributing towards a more sustainable industry.
The business aims to produce seasonless garments that will last a long time and complement your wardrobe by making the pieces simple and timeless. This detailed thinking about the design process largely contrast with the throw away culture that has evolved as a result of the fast fashion industry.
A lifetime guarantee is provided by Riley Studio to ensure that their pieces can be worn for years to come. They offer a repair service which again minimises the amount of people throwing away clothes. The brand produces a range of items from knitwear to outerwear, all made with a sustainable stamp.
Riona Treacy
Belfast native Riona Treacy created this brand with sustainability at the heart of all the designs, manufacturing everything in the UK so that the production process has no carbon footprint. The garments are handmade in London and materials include wool, vegan leather, silk jersey and hand dyed prints. T-shirts are made with organic cotton and customers receive their purchases in recycled cardboard boxes and tissue paper, reducing the amount of plastic waste.
The brand thinks carefully about the working conditions of employees and supports local manufacturers, something which has been heavily criticised within the fast fashion industry. Riona Treacy is considered a slow fashion brand, meaning the items are made to last and not to be thrown away after one use.
The brand describes the clothing as made with "care and craftsmanship" adding a personal touch to the business and highlighting how clothes can be made in an incredibly ethical way.
Hanna Fiedler
Hanna Fielder is a standout ethical brand which was founded in 2018. The brands aim is to provide women with effortless and timeless pieces that make them feel strong and powerful, whilst working sustainably and thinking about the planet. High-end and environmentally friendly materials are used and clothing is not restricted by the change of seasons.
The sustainable materials used include organic cotton, silk and wool with all materials sourced from European mills, localising production and lowering their carbon footprint. The brand encourages customers to think more consciously about their clothing and see items as long term investment pieces that can be worn for many years. Hanna worked with high end brands such as McQ Alexander McQueen and Gabriela Hearst before launching her own clothing line with made to order items.
AV
AV featured at LFW as part of Fashion Scout's 'One's To Watch' which is a collaborative showcase which enables emerging designers to express their creativity and visions. The new womenswear brand, created by Andrea Altmann, strives to create experimental radical and unorthodox designs with respect to art, culture, and society. Sustainability is a key element of their designs as they aim to produce items with zero impact on the environment. Their upcoming Spring, Summer 2020 collection uses sustainable materials such as biological cotton, cupro fabric, tencel, rayon and natural rubber.
But What does this mean for the environment?
The emergence of these fashion brands provides hope for a more sustainable industry and shows that more and more brands are beginning to turn to eco-friendly materials and production processes. Ann Draycott, senior fashion lecturer at the University of Lincoln feels that the issue is gradually becoming more talked about and people are beginning to make a difference. She said:"The problem is not as bad as it was because people are becoming more aware of it and organisations are taking the lead." These small changes are steps towards sustainability but ultimately there is still much more that needs to be done in order to combat climate change and make all fashion sustainable.
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